Peter Do Spring/Summer 2022 Collection: Runway, Backstage
Peter Do Spring/Summer 2022 Men’s. New York, New York
Peter Do has never done a proper New York Fashion Week runway before, but you wouldn’t know just from viewing the presentation. The designer’s refined womenswear fluttered in the breeze that filtered through Brooklyn’s Greenpoint neighborhood, a suitably subdued locale for Do’s signature subdued apparel. Fading summer sunlight framed the clean lines on the runway, while the grungy “backstage” area contrasted beautifully against Do’s unaffected aesthetic.
It’s not that Do’s clothing is simple, though: it just affects this air of unbothered elegance that goes back to Do’s mentorship under Phoebe Philo. His color palette is easy neutrals uplifted by flashes of primary color, like an oversized yellow shirt or blue floral appliqué.
Elsa Peretti-like cuffs, immense leather bags, raw hems, and beefy footwear are tough but not masculine, anchoring Do’s relaxed shapes. Likewise, jeans were worn huge, their workwear roots clashing against the big blouses and sleeveless tailoring.
Do shapes these staple garments — trench coats, suits, skirts, jeans — into statement pieces by tugging at their silhouettes or seams, adjusting the width and length as he sees fit. This isn’t the new normal, but maybe it ought to be.
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Sorry, Jacquemus — we love ya but tiny bags are so 2020.
In the semi-permanent WFH era, clothes need to be comfortable, even when they’re a little dressy. Part of Do’s magic is how he makes even rote tailoring liquid and loose, draping into silhouettes so exacting that they come back around to looking carefree.
Big, Broken-In Jeans
A perfect pair of jeans, well-loved and well-washed, is dependable like a best friend. Do has taken your old pal and zhooshed her up, with wider cuts, big cuffs, and faux fades for effortless cool.
Equally, delicate and dramatic, the three-dimensional flower detailing was itself a suitable metaphor for Do’s design ethos.
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